Meall nan Tarmachan Ridge

The Meall nan Tarmachan ridge is one of the finest mountain days in the southern Highlands. A horseshoe traverse over four distinct summits, it delivers airy scrambling, constantly changing views, and a real sense of adventure — all within a compact circular route that starts and finishes at the familiar Ben Lawers car park. For many hillwalkers, this is the more exciting neighbour to Ben Lawers itself, and it’s easy to see why.

The Approach

From the NTS car park on the Ben Lawers road (at around 450m altitude), don’t take the main path northward toward Ben Lawers. Instead, follow the track that heads west along the old hill road toward Lochan na Lairige. This vehicle track is a gentle warm-up, contouring across the hillside with increasingly impressive views south across Loch Tay to the Tarmachan ridge ahead and to the left.

After approximately 1.5 km, leave the track and strike uphill on a well-worn path heading northwest toward the southeast ridge of Meall nan Tarmachan. The ground steepens steadily here, climbing through tussocky grass and occasional rocky steps. The path is generally clear, though it can become braided in places where walkers have picked different lines through wet ground.

As you gain height, the views open up dramatically. Behind you, the massive bulk of Ben Lawers and Beinn Ghlas dominate the skyline. To the south, Loch Tay stretches away in both directions, its long blue ribbon winding through the glen. On clear days, you can pick out the Arrochar Alps and even the distinctive profile of Ben Lomond to the southwest.

Summit One: Meall nan Tarmachan (1,044m)

The main summit is the highest point on the ridge and a Munro in its own right. The final approach is up a broad, stony ridge that narrows pleasantly as you near the top. A substantial summit cairn marks the high point at 1,044 metres.

The summit panorama is exceptional. To the north, the remote wilderness of the Grampians rolls away to the horizon. The Lawers range fills the eastern sky, while to the west and southwest the peaks of Breadalbane — the ancient heartland of the Highlands — march into the distance. Take time here. In good visibility, you can identify dozens of Munros from this single vantage point.

The Ridge Traverse

This is where the walk truly comes alive. From the summit of Meall nan Tarmachan, the ridge heads southwest in a spectacular horseshoe, visiting three more tops before curving back east to complete the circuit. The character of the walk changes completely — from straightforward hillwalking to an engaging ridge traverse with optional scrambling, exposed sections, and dramatic drops on both sides.

Meall Garbh (1,026m)

The descent from the main summit to the col before Meall Garbh is steep and requires care, particularly in wet conditions. The path picks its way down rocky ground before arriving at a narrow bealach. The climb up to Meall Garbh is shorter but involves the most technical section of the ridge — a Grade 1 scramble up a rocky step that is exposed but well-worn.

This scrambling section is the crux of the route. In dry conditions, it is straightforward for anyone comfortable with using their hands on rock, but it can be tricky when wet or icy. There is an easier bypass path on the south side for anyone who prefers to avoid the scramble, though it misses some of the best fun on the ridge.

The summit of Meall Garbh is a fine perch, with particularly good views down to Lochan na Lairige — the small reservoir trapped between the Tarmachan ridge and the Lawers range.

Beinn nan Eachan (1,000m)

Continuing southwest, the ridge dips and rises to the third top. The walking here is on a narrow but well-defined crest, grassy in places, rocky in others. There is a genuine sense of exposure — the ground falls away steeply on both sides — but the path is never technically difficult. This section feels genuinely alpine, and on a clear summer day with a gentle breeze, there are few finer places to be walking in Scotland.

Beinn nan Eachan just scrapes the 1,000m mark. Its summit is a small rocky platform with commanding views west along Glen Lyon — Scotland’s longest enclosed glen — and south to the forests above Loch Tay’s southern shore.

Creag an Lochain (887m)

The final top on the horseshoe is the lowest but by no means the least interesting. The descent from Beinn nan Eachan is steep in places, and the ridge narrows once more before opening out onto the broader summit area of Creag an Lochain. The north face of this peak drops dramatically into a fine corrie, and mountain hares are often spotted among the boulders here.

The Descent

From Creag an Lochain, the route turns east and then northeast to complete the horseshoe. The descent is on grassy slopes — a welcome change after the rocky ridge — dropping steadily back toward the Ben Lawers road. The going is mostly pathless here, so you’ll need to navigate by map and compass in poor visibility. Aim for the vehicle track you walked out on earlier, which will lead you comfortably back to the car park.

The lower slopes can be boggy, especially after rain, so gaiters are a good idea. In spring and early summer, keep an eye out for mountain hares in their transitional coats and red deer grazing on the lower hillsides.

Safety Notes

This is a serious mountain route that demands respect:

• Full hillwalking kit essential — Waterproofs, warm layers, hat, gloves, map (OS Explorer 378), and compass
• Navigation skills required — Particularly for the descent, which is largely pathless
• The scrambling section on Meall Garbh is avoidable but the bypass is not always obvious
• In winter — This becomes a full winter mountaineering route. Crampons, ice axe, and winter navigation skills are essential. The scrambling section can be particularly serious under snow and ice
• Wind exposure — The ridge is very exposed to westerly winds. Check the mountain forecast before setting out
• Allow plenty of time — The distance is moderate but the terrain is slow-going in places

What You’ll See

• Alpine flora including moss campion, mountain pansy, and alpine lady’s mantle (June–August)
• Ptarmigan on the high ridges, often reluctant to fly and surprisingly well camouflaged
• Mountain hares on the lower slopes, white in winter, blue-grey in summer
• Golden eagles soar over the Tarmachan ridge — keep scanning the sky
• Red deer grazing on the approach slopes, especially in the morning

Getting to the Start

The walk begins at the NTS Ben Lawers car park on the minor road between the A827 (Loch Tay north shore) and Bridge of Balgie in Glen Lyon. From the A827, turn off at the signed junction approximately 6 miles east of Killin. The car park is about 3 miles up the hill road. A small parking fee applies for non-NTS members. Arrive early in summer — the car park is popular and fills quickly on good-weather weekends.