Glen Lyon Revisited: All Quiet on the Carn Mairg Circuit

This article is republished with the kind permission of Alan Rowan of Munro Moonwalker. All photographs are credited to Alan Rowan.

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It was a perfect morning; there was already warmth in the early sun, the skies were clear and the wind could hardly raise a breath.

As I made my way through the silent woods, pale laser beams of light slicing through the canopy, I watched a red squirrel skipping and bouncing along a wall of moss-shrouded rock.

This was peace personified, nature at its breathtaking, beautiful best. It may seem hard to believe then that I had set out that morning ready for conflict, but that’s the unfortunate side effect of years of access problems surrounding the Carn Mairg circuit of four Munros in Glen Lyon.

The Access Question

The mountains lie on the North Chesthill estate and, for as long as I can remember, the right to roam enshrined in Scottish law has been pushed to the limits here.

In fairness, I have climbed these hills four times now and not once have I had any problem. Quite the opposite, in fact. On one occasion when I was reading the notice on the huge, locked gate suggesting that I should walk elsewhere, the head stalker appeared and told me to ignore it and that it was fine to proceed.

Others haven’t had such a warm welcome. Every so often this festering dispute flares up into full-scale harassment and animosity. We have the right to responsible access, but the advice when faced with a belligerent landowner who is determined to block your way is to de-escalate the situation by walking away.

A Welcome Surprise

So you can understand why some may feel slight trepidation when they plan a walk here. I certainly felt an edge as I headed for Glen Lyon, but I had come with alternative plans. I wasn’t in the mood for a fight — I came in peace just looking for a day out in the sunshine.

It came as a relief then to find no angry mob manning the barricades but instead a series of polite diversion notices and way markers showing the altered route into the woods and up onto the hill.

There was a bit of limbo action due to the number of fallen trees lying across the path, but otherwise it was all stress-free. It seems the sensible way ahead.

A Compact Circuit

This compact circuit of four Munros — Carn Gorm, Meall Garbh, Carn Mairg and Meall nan Aighean — is a honey pot for peak baggers and the Invervar approach is the most attractive way to climb them.

They provide a relatively short day — I was round the circuit and out again in six hours — which appeals to those looking for an instant boost to their Munro tally.

Approaches from the north involve covering a lot of tedious and strength-sapping ground, and the west and east sides present their own problems.

The walkers are not going to stop coming, so let’s hope common sense and civility can prevail and my experience becomes the norm rather than the exception.

I came in peace just looking for a day out in the sunshine. It came as a relief to find no angry mob manning the barricades but instead a series of polite diversion notices.

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Planning Your Own Glen Lyon Circuit

The Route

The Carn Mairg horseshoe from Invervar takes in four Munros — Carn Gorm (1,029m), Meall Garbh (968m), Carn Mairg (1,041m) and Meall nan Aighean (981m). Start from the small car park at Invervar in Glen Lyon (grid ref NN 666 483). Most walkers do the circuit clockwise. Allow 5–6 hours for the full round. The total distance is approximately 17 km with around 1,200m of ascent.

Access Notes

The route crosses the North Chesthill estate. While access rights are protected under the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, this estate has a history of access tensions. Most walkers report a trouble-free experience, but follow any posted diversion signs and be respectful. During the stalking season (August to October), check for any specific guidance.

Getting There

Glen Lyon is reached by turning north off the A827 at Fortingall, between Kenmore and Killin. Follow the single-track road into the glen — Invervar is around 12 km from Fortingall. The nearest shops and fuel are in Aberfeldy.

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Alan Rowan’s Munro Moonwalker project chronicles full-moon ascents of Scotland’s Munros. His book and ongoing blog feature stunning photography and compelling writing from Scotland’s wildest places. Follow his adventures at munromoonwalker.com.