Mountain writer Alan Rowan makes the case for Perthshire's overlooked smaller hills — from Glen Almond to the shores of Loch Tay, these hidden gems pack a punch far beyond their modest heights.
This article is republished with the kind permission of Alan Rowan of Munro Moonwalker. All photographs are credited to Alan Rowan.
Living on the east coast has its advantages. The weather is generally drier than in the west, thanks in part to the massive blocking influence of the Cairngorms.
But when it comes to the mountains us easterners are at a big disadvantage. The vast majority of the big hills are in the west and north-west and reaching them means a lot of long journeys.
The A85: A Road Worth Knowing
One of the main arteries when I’m heading for Crianlarich and beyond is the A85. It ambles for 36 miles from Perth through Methven, Gilmerton, Crieff, Comrie and St Fillans, before reaching Lochearnhead and the start of big mountain country.
It was a road I used to hate, just a nuisance part of the journey to better places. But familiarity has bred content and its beauty has won me over.
It’s also become a big part of my hillgoing during the winter months. When the weather is kicking off in the west and I don’t feel like travelling too far, this is a safer bet.
There’s only one Munro off this road, Ben Chonzie, but there are many hidden gems. And don’t let the serenity of green fields and grazing sheep and cows fool you — there are a lot of tough wee guys around here.
From Glen Almond to Loch Tay
Turn north in the village of Gilmerton for instance and you drive through the Sma’ Glen, a mini Glencoe, where the terrain switches very quickly from pastoral to rough mountain country.
Further up here at Newton Bridge, head into Glen Almond where there are Corbetts and Grahams galore offering challenging walks. The through walk to Ardtalnaig on the shores of Loch Tay is also a great day out.
From Comrie you can head north into Glen Lednock to tackle Ben Chonzie or Creag Uchdag or south towards rugged Glen Artney. Then there’s the delights of Glen Tarken at St Fillans, a hard winter’s round taking in a pair of 2,000-ft plus hills, which involves a lot of ups and downs.
Mor Bheinn: A Small Hill With a Big Attitude
Last week a friend and I climbed Mor Bheinn, just outside Comrie. The early part of the walk is on a track through woods and farmland but when you turn into the glen the terrain turns as well.
The track follows a deep gorge with the roar of the water on your right and when it finally opens out you then face a stiff push up rugged, pathless ground in surroundings that could be a real test in mist.
Although only around 2,100 feet high, Mor Bheinn is bulky and covers a lot of ground and has the feel of a much more serious mountain. You can have an easier day on quite a few Munros.
A high bealach separates Mor Bheinn from its rocky twin Ben Halton, and if you have the time it’s worth the extra effort to climb this peak and then drop down west through crags and rough ground to pick up the track which will take you back to the start.
Don’t let the serenity of green fields and grazing sheep fool you — there are a lot of tough wee guys around here.
Planning Your Perthshire Hill Days
Ben Chonzie
The only Munro on the A85 corridor, Ben Chonzie (931m) is most often climbed from Glen Lednock above Comrie. A straightforward walk following a good track to the summit, it offers panoramic views in all directions. Allow 4–5 hours. An excellent bad-weather option.
Glen Almond to Ardtalnaig
The through-walk from Newton Bridge in Glen Almond to Ardtalnaig on the south shore of Loch Tay is a classic cross-country route. It follows ancient drove roads through remote and beautiful country. Allow a full day and arrange transport at both ends, or make a weekend of it with a wild camp.
Getting There
The A85 runs from Perth to Crianlarich, passing through Crieff, Comrie, St Fillans and Lochearnhead. All the walks described are within an hour of Loch Tay, making this corridor a natural extension of any visit to the area.
Alan Rowan’s Munro Moonwalker project chronicles full-moon ascents of Scotland’s Munros. His book and ongoing blog feature stunning photography and compelling writing from Scotland’s wildest places. Follow his adventures at munromoonwalker.com.
About the author
Alan Rowan
Alan Rowan is a mountain writer and photographer based in Scotland. His Munro Moonwalker project chronicles full-moon ascents of Scotland's highest peaks, combining mountaineering with landscape photography. His work has featured on BBC Scotland's Landward and in numerous outdoor publications.
Visit munromoonwalker.com