The Tarmachan Ridge: More Than Just the Cherry on Top

This article is republished with the kind permission of Alan Rowan of Munro Moonwalker. All photographs are credited to Alan Rowan.

---

One of the great plusses of a more leisurely second round of Corbetts is the opportunity to explore different routes and add in more outlying and often ignored summits.

Just as many Munros have subsidiary summits listed as Munro Tops, it makes sense that the extra appendages on Corbetts are known as Corbett Tops. Except that the term is rarely used now and many hillwalkers remain unaware of it.

A World of Lists

Corbetts are summits of between 914m and 762m in height with an all-round drop of 152m. There are currently 222 listed. A Corbett Top is a subsidiary summit with a drop of at least 30 metres all round and at the last count there were 453.

That makes a grand total of 675 summits which are either Corbetts or Tops. The slight complication comes with the fact that Corbett Tops can also be subsidiaries of Munros. Therefore of the 453, only 188 are attached to Corbetts with 265 being outlying summits of Munros.

I still get blank looks from many contemporaries when I mention Corbett Tops but old habits die hard. I have persisted with the old name based on a list of these subsidiaries I downloaded many years ago and still work my way through them. I have no intention (or chance) of finishing the list but it has provided valuable information in pointing the way to more interesting — and quieter — circuits.

It’s calming to have a list of hills that you know you can never finish and the Corbett Tops fit the bill perfectly.

A Fresh Approach to the Tarmachans

A recent brief weather window tempted me back to the Tarmachan Ridge, but instead of taking the heavily scarred path up from the Ben Lawers car park I tackled this old favourite from the north side, a horseshoe circuit of Coire Riadhailt.

Apart from providing a different perspective of Meall nan Tarmachan and its associated heights, this route was also done with the intention of ticking off two outlying Corbett Tops, Creag an Lochain and Meall Ton Eich. The former was a grassy bump on the way to the main summit, but the latter required a detour out to the north-west of the main circuit and then backtracking to drop along the western arm of the corrie.

Creag an Lochain to Meall nan Tarmachan

Creag an Lochain looks craggy and impressive when looking up from Lochan na Lairige but from this ascent it was a mere grassy lump reached by a short push from the road. The continuation on to the main peak was short and sharp and I was soon standing at the small cairn in beautiful conditions looking along the full stretch of the ridge.

The best summit, Meall Garbh, and the many lumps of Beinn nan Eachan followed in quick succession before I dropped down to the next col. On the trade route, this is the turning point: you either go up and over Beinn nan Caillich or take the path which immediately heads down.

One Top Too Far

To reach Meall Ton Eich however means going over the side of Beinn nan Caillich. There was a path of sorts but it soon fizzled out and although my target peak was now only a kilometre or so distant the terrain didn’t look particularly inviting.

Coupled with that was the sudden and fast-moving sea of grey rolling in from the west smothering all in its wake. Within minutes, the blue sky and sunshine had disappeared and the landscape had disappeared along with the pleasant temperature and my enthusiasm for this final summit. Pushing on would have simply ruined what had been a fine day, so I made my excuses and left.

It’s highly likely this hill will be one that remains forever on the unticked list but I won’t lose any sleep over it: the Corbett Tops — or whatever you wish to call them — are a luxury rather than a necessity.

---

Planning Your Own Tarmachan Ridge Walk

The Standard Route

The most popular route starts from the Ben Lawers car park on the mountain road between Loch Tay and Glen Lyon (grid ref NN 608 378). Follow the well-worn path north-west to Meall nan Tarmachan (1,044m), then continue along the spectacular ridge over Meall Garbh, Beinn nan Eachan, and Creag na Caillich before descending back to the road. Allow 5–6 hours for the full traverse. Distance is approximately 12 km with 800m of ascent.

The North Side Alternative

For a quieter experience, consider the Coire Riadhailt horseshoe described in this article. Approach from the north side of the ridge via the mountain road near Lochan na Lairige. This provides a completely different perspective and the chance to bag some seldom-visited Corbett Tops.

What Makes This Ridge Special

The Tarmachan Ridge is one of the finest ridge walks accessible from Loch Tay. The scrambling is never too serious (Grade 1 at most) and the views along the full length of Loch Tay, across to the Ben Lawers range, and south to the Lowlands are outstanding. It’s also a fantastic botanical area, with rare arctic-alpine plants on the higher ground.

---

Alan Rowan’s Munro Moonwalker project chronicles full-moon ascents of Scotland’s Munros. His book and ongoing blog feature stunning photography and compelling writing from Scotland’s wildest places. Follow his adventures at munromoonwalker.com.